Its that time of year where we all start to plan and prepare for all the baking were going to do.  What's the first thing we usually do?  If you said clean our ovens, then your right.  More than likely your reading this page because you've already used the self clean mode and now have one or more of these problems.

Each year we get several calls that start with “I just ran the self clean mode”. Does not seem to matter what brand or if its gas or electric. The common problem is that the self clean feature was just used, and now its not working, the glass broke, the clock doesn't work, the door won’t open or the door won’t close. The oven gets up to about 900 degrees so that it will incinerate everything in it so it turns to dust and you can just wipe it up when its done.   The heat will sometimes not only burn the grime up but will also burn things that should not burn up like the wiring, controls, and motors... The wiring and controls are built to withstand high heat, although taking the oven to such high temperatures pushes everything to the limit. If something is not insulated perfectly or has shifted a bit then the heat can cause it to fail. Repeated heating also wears the insulation out and causes it to break down. For this reason the self cleaning features should be used sparingly if at all. I have seen countless ranges that failed the first time trying it. I know why even bother having it ??? You have now been warned!!! If your oven will not unlock after the cycle you have a few things you can try. First make sure that you wait long enough before you try to open the oven. If it has not cooled completely it will not open. Do not run a clean cycle when you do not have the time to let it cool completely before you need it. Sometimes if you cycle the power to your oven off and then on again you can reset the oven and it will open. Turn off the breaker to your oven for a good minute or two before reapplying the power again. If that fails to unlock the door try this Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.
If you've interrupted the clean cycle by opening the door and the latch engaged and now the door can't be closed, there may be a door activated switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
On some Frigidaire built ranges, the switch is located behind the RH side panel and activated by the RH door hinge. On such a model, that side panel may need to be removed to access a malfunctioning door switch.
Still not working
Most self cleaning ranges today use one of 3 different types of door locking systems. One design is solenoid driven, another is heat activated and the last, motorized. * A solenoid type can be identified by the lever that must be set to lock the door, also a noise (sometimes loud) can be heard when locking or unlocking the door. * The heat sensitive lock mechanism also has a locking lever but makes no noises. It instead utilizes a heat activated coiled spring to slowly lock the door as the oven heats. * The motorized design has no lever to move, the motor locks the door by itself when the range is set for self clean. The motor may have made an audible whining or ratcheting sound when in use, a sure sign it failed.
A motorized or heat sensitive style lock will usually be located beneath the cook top on free standing ranges. The cook top would usually need to be lifted to access the locking mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must usually be removed from its enclosure (or at least partially) in order to remove the top panel to gain access to the locking mechanism. Some will also require removing a cover on the back of the range to access the motor and micro switches (if equipped). On some built in oven models, the lock assembly may be able to be accessed by removing the control console. Heat sensitive lock assembly on the heat sensitive style (illustrated), there are no electrical parts used to operate the lock which could fail, so the whole mechanism will usually need to be replaced if not operational. This is the least likely to fail in my experience.
With the motorized lock mechanism, an ohmmeter is required to try to determine why the locking motor will not operate. The failure could be in the motor itself or the power supply leading to it, including a door activated and/or console mounted switch and switches on the latch mechanism itself. Check the motor terminals with the ohmmeter you should have about 1 ohm on most . Also check from 1 terminal to a good ground you should have none. Inspect the motor and wiring for burn marks. If all is good make sure you have power going to the motor when activated. Check each micro switch if equipped for continuity. Sometimes the cam on the motor will be in between micro switches, in that case take a screwdriver and push in the tab on one of the micro switches to activate it. The micro switch should have no continuity when the tab is not depressed and should have continuity when depressed.
On solenoid activated designs, the solenoid coil is a common failure point which is often mounted on the back of the range. On many of these models, the lock mechanism can be accessed by removing the rear panel of the appliance. Some models such as built-in ovens or slide-in ranges may have the mechanism mounted towards the front, under the top.
Solenoid coil Failure of a solenoid style lock is most often caused by a bad solenoid. Once the lock is located, the solenoid coil can be checked for continuity. If it has none replace it. Some latch assemblies also have micro switches in the power supply that will need to be checked (follow the above procedure).
Now if the control is not working at all. First check to see if power is reaching the control. If it does have power going in you will need to replace the main control. Now if you have no power going into the control your range may have a safety fuse that has blown. To check the fuse check it for continuity. If it has none replace it. To find out if you have a safety or thermal fuse enter in your model # above and check the diagrams. Most will be located on top of the oven compartment or the back up high. Now you will probably never use the self clean feature again. If you do plan on using it bookmark this page you will need it.

I hope some of these tips will help you. If your still having problems please give Affordable Appliance Repair a call (972) 772-3680 we will be more than happy to come help.

Have a wonderful day!