By Sharon August 12, 2016
We were treated like family .The service was done in a timely manner.The TV had a great picture and the coffee was good.The car wash job was excellent. Vehicle: 2015 Kia Sorento ...read more
By Cynthia August 12, 2016
We worked out a deal paying exactly what my husband wanted to pay. It was late in the evening and they still cleaned the new car. Vehicle: 2006 Ford Explorer ...read more
By William August 12, 2016
Ease of service is excellent. They get you out quickly. I was informed of some factory work that needed to be done and they were able to complete it as the same time they did what I came in to have done. Vehicle: 2014 Kia Soul ...read more
A large automotive generator o would generate perhaps 30 amps at full speed. A modern rotating field generator will be rated 85 amps, and that's a little one on a small car. Cars with A/C, electric windows, electronic fuel injection, and lots of other power accessories will have at least a 100 amp. generator, and many have 125 or 150 amp generators. These generators use solid-state diode rectifiers to change the AC generated in the stator (stationary) coils into the DC used in the car's electrics. DC is used because of the needs of the chemical starting battery, which can be charged only with DC and can put out DC only. A (usually for the last 30 years or so) solid state voltage regulator meters the excitation current sent through the brushes and slip rings to the rotor coil to keep the output voltage within narrow limits, around 13.8-14.6 volts direct current (14.6 V is the limit for the "12 volt" battery). This regulator is now usually mounted inside the generator case, but some applications still mount it in a box elsewhere in the motor compartment. And here is a design problem with the Jeep V8 engine; the voltage regulator, commonly referred to as the diode pack, is a part of the PCM circuit board. If the voltage regulator becomes faulty it requires purchasing a PCM which must be updated or "flashed" with the vehicles VIN number and current mileage. An expensive replacement indeed. You can install an external voltage regulator...12v should be the terminal closest to the ground screw (the terminal your red wiring is going to) And the PCM driver, (the wire you need to disconnect) is the other terminal (black wire) If you have 12v on the right terminal to ground, but nothing to the other terminal, you can just use your extra wires you have already added to connect your regulator. Dave saailer Burbee ...read more
By Auto & Truck Electrical Specialist August 21, 2012
When that ugly Check Engine Light comes on and the On Board diagnostic (OBD II) is telling you that the Oxygen Sensor/Sensors are the cause do not let the mechanic change them. The cost of these sensors is high. Generally speaking, the Oxy sensor trouble code is an effect not a cause. If the fuel to air mixture is incorrect these sensors become contaminated and changing them will cure the initial trouble but as soon as that incorrect fuel mixture re-contaminates the Oxy sensor the Check Engine Light will back on. This places your vehicle right back where it was after spending $200-$300. Radio Shack sells a product called DeOxit, a no touch electronic spray cleaner. The cost is $15, certainly better than $300. If you remove the Oxy Sensor and spray the tip with DeOxit then reinstall the contamination is removed. Now what needs to be done is locate the reason for the incorrect fuel/air mixture. In many instances, depending on vehicle brand, the engine computer may not see a bad Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS) or Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. These three sensors are responsible for fuel/air mixture. They can be tested with a digital multimeter ($20) to determine if they are defective. Also, the absence of a solid ground from the negative battery terminal to the chassis and engine block will cause many sensors to not function. Before you throw away your hard earned money give me a call at 910-777-8737 and allow the Saailer to pinpoint the cause of your vehicle̢۪s fault; timely, accurate solutions for your busy life. ...read more
By Auto & Truck Electrical Specialist August 04, 2012
Automobiles today are rolling laptops. That is to say the Power Train Control Module (PCM)...Transmission Control module (TCM)...And the Electronic Control Module (ECM) all contain 5 volt logic. This means minor changes in current flow are significant. To insure proper operation of these sophisticated circuits attention needs to be focused on correct ground straps… Large cable (#8) or wide braided straps have large cross sectional area and therefore low resistance to current flow. The negative battery post not only needs to be clean and snug but a ground strap from that post has to be connected to the chassis and engine block. Measuring the resistance with an ohm meter from negative battery post to bare metal of the body and then to bare metal on the block must yield zero ohms. Also an additional strap should be installed from the body to the catalytic converter to insure proper current flow to the Oxygen Sensors. These sensors are the most changed component when a dealership is attempting to dose the infamous Check Engine Light. Many mechanics will change the Oxygen Sensors ($300 on the average) when those sensors are either good or merely contaminated, your money has been uselessly spent. Here is an example of an actual repair. Wendy brought her 2002 Maxima to me with the Check Engine Light on. The vehicle was hard starting and was getting poor mileage plus stumbled on acceleration. The dealer wanted to change the Oxygen Sensors. However, due to the cost, she brought the car to me for a second opinion. I first removed the Oxygen Sensors and cleaned them with a Radio Shack product called DeOxit. DeOxit cost $15 and is a no-touch electronic part cleaner. After reinstalling the Sensors it was necessary to find out why they were fouled. The resistance from negative battery post to the chassis and from chassis to engine read 2500 ohms; this is the culprit. I made up several ground straps, one from post to bare metal on the fender, one from fender to engine block and a third from catalytic converter to the chassis. Using a 9 volt battery plugged into the cigar lighter to maintain power to the stereo I disconnected the positive battery lead for 5 minutes to clear the codes that had the Check Engine Light on. The result was excellent, No codes, engine ran very smooth, accelerated perfectly and after several weeks Wendy noted an increase of 5 miles per gallon. Which would you rather have; a $300 bill with the trouble remaining or $15 for DeOxit plus $10 for ground straps for a total of $55 with labor? The answer is obvious; at Auto&Truck; Electrical Specialist we trouble shoot the fault with pinpoint accuracy...No guesswork....JUST ANSWERS. Visit us at: http://autotruckelectricalfaultanalysis-com1.webs.com/for internet service.Or at:http://www.merchantcircle.com/business/Auto.And.Truck.Electrical.Specialist.910-777-8737for local service in the Wilmington, NC area. ...read more
By Auto & Truck Electrical Specialist July 18, 2012
Maintaining a healthy and functional automatic transmission is incredibly important to your car's overall health as well as your bank account's overall health. A faulty transmission can be one of the most expensive repairs for a car owner and learning how to do repairs yourself can be a well worthy in... ...read more
The transmission is the part of the car that allows the gears to change in order for the car to move faster. Without a functioning transmission, the car will not move. An automatic transmission switches gears by itself instead of requiring the driver to manually change them. The transmission can be re... ...read more
