Top Home and Garden Services in Louisville, KY 40211
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TruGreen Lawn Care
By Gail Kuhn August 29, 2018
The technician took time to walk my yard with me, answer all my questions, identify weeds &; dicuss his application plan for my yard. He didn't rush me, was very personable &; knowledgeable. After we spoke, I feel 100% confident that TruGreen will get my lawn in tip top shape! ...read more
TruGreen Lawn Care
By Brad Lipe August 16, 2018
Kenneth greeted us with a smile, even had to go refill his tank halfway thru the treatment, told us he’d be back soon, and he certainly was and gave us a great rundown of what to expect based on the weeds in our lawn. Already seeing minor results after one treatment, couldnt be more pleased, money well spent!! ...read more
TruGreen Lawn Care
By Judith Henry June 21, 2018
I had used another yard company for about 6 or 7 years. They sprayed and said because I had a lot of trees, the shade kept the grass from growing and looking good. They eliminated weeds, but my grass was thin and all different colors. I've been a TruGreen customer for a year now, May, 2017. My yard is beautiful, green thick grass, no weeds --- and I still have those same shade trees! TruGreen certain;ly made a fantastic improvement! The company person that takes care of my yard, comes early in the morning. He leaves a small sturdy sign stuck in the yard, to let me know he's been there. He leaves a form telling me exactly what he did, it is very detailed. I do not have to be home. I have my payments automatically deducted from my Bank account. I love TruGreen! So EASY! ...read more
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DownLight - Ask for It, If Your Utility Bills Are High
As aesthetical and smart it can get, a down light is made available to you in its most convenient form by its quality of being mounted on any surface. And, in case you were worrying too much about your utility bills, a down light is one which takes total care of your utility bills. A down light is much more than what you could think, for it’s one of the most modern and efficientLED lightsthat can fit into dual environments such as -- commercial and residential and giving you the best option for your indoor lighting needs. A down light highlights the desired areas while ensuring that your businesses keep going up and anxiety to the zero. A down light or a recessed light is a light fixture that can be easily installed into hollow space in the ceiling while providing light in the downward direction from a hole in the ceiling. Truly looks wonderful, when you take a gaze at it and when you can always call it a -- narrow spotlight. If you love to experiment with new lights, then down light falls in a category that is truly a product of innovation when the down light creates a unique lighting effect. Most of thedownlightsthat you would find in the market will be cast in aluminium to provide the much needed durability and brightness in such a way that they do not draw any extra power for that brightness. Talk about its applications and a down light is one which is an ideal light fixture for low-ceiling areas in home and office, hotels and motels, convenience stores and liquor outlets, and hospitals and schools. You may come across a down light that can be either directional or diffuse. When it’s directional, it provides light in directions controlled via deflectors and when it’s diffuse, it will provide light that can get distributed to be called as omnidirectional. A down light can provide a warm white glow, a natural glow, cool white glow and cold white glow since the light fixture uses varying color temperatures of 3000K, 4000K and 5000K. It has a CRI of 90+ and so you imagine how good the color rendering it provides. Further, it has a base of E26 which means the screw in the down light will have a base of 26 mm diameter and can work in the fixtures that used to hold such screw bases. You may come across situations, where a down light is available in E27 base but that’s a sure shot sign of a down light being manufactured outside of United States and so will not work for the U.S. market. Additionally, this also says that the down light is lacking some certifications such as UL, DL, ETL and Energy Star. The down light which is available as a natural daylight and cool daylight consume less power and hence you can be assured that it’s not just a bright light but is also economical. One of the biggest advantages that a down light offers is it’s dimmable. So, you can dim it and save further on the energy, provided you have the right dimming controls in your fixtures, else install the dimmer. Last but not the least, a down light has a baffle trim design that can attract anyone to personal or professional indoor spaces. Conclusion :Need say more? Guess, that would be too much. The down light is a guarantee to offering a long service life and hence once installed, your worries will be gone for long. ...read more
By LEDMyplace August 02, 2018
Lake & Natural Pond Maintenance & Fountains
http://waterfeaturepros.com/lake-fountains-aquamaster-kasco-marine/ ...read more
By Pond and Fountain World March 05, 2016
Low Maintenance Koi Ponds
Successful Garden & Koi Pond Management. Water Feature Pros (502) 245-8575 #1.Don’t have too many fish and don’t feed more than your filter can handle. Approximately 1” of fish for every 20 gallons, but this answer varies. A) Fish require more space as they get larger. So a 10” fish is not really equal to a (2) 5” fish. Koi represent 3-4x the “fish-load” as they double in size. So (10) 12” fish are definitely more than double the load on a pond than (20) 6” fish. B) Feeding has a big impact. Every day feeding compared to every other day will certainly equal more waste and filtration needs. Also, (1) cup of food is obviously ½ the filter demand of (2) cups per day. Cheap food has more fillers leaving more undigested waste for the filter to deal with. High quality food is more digestible and leaves less waste. C) Spring or Winter food is low protein and more digestible for when the fish are slow moving. It can be fed anytime of the year and be fine for your fish. Summer food primarily has more protein for improved growth when the fish are in 68-70 degree plus water. This is the only food that you should try not to feed when the water is below 68 degrees. D) Don’t feed below 50-48 degrees. Zero, the fish are fine. If they eat it’s only because their brain is smaller than a birds and they don’t know any better. They’re conditioned. From 48 – 60 degrees only feed 2-3 times a day. 60-70 degrees every other day. No daily or multiple times per day feeding until 70 degree water temps. is a basic guideline. E) Fish are weakest in the spring after months of dormancy. Their overall body process including immune systems are slow to come back and the fluctuating temperatures can have them in a very compromised “middle ground”. They would rather be consistently dormant in 35 degree water then up and down in the 50s in the Spring. Bacteria and parasites have one of their best opportunities of the year to afflict an immune compromised fish at this time. F) Salting the water up to 3-4% is a simple way to treat for parasites in the Spring and help your fish produce mucus/slime coat part of their immune system, and extract oxygen out of the water more easily thru their gills. We typically do this when the water starts rising in the upper 40s, roughly mid-March to early April in Louisville Ky. A simple thermometer in your pond will tell you. We increase it at 1% every 24 hrs. 1 lb. of salt will change 100 gallons to 1% salinity. So 10lbs will change 1000 gallons to 1%. 30lbs will change 1000 gallons to 3%. So we would add 10 lbs. every day to a 1000 gal pond in late March early April, for 3-4 days, shoot for 3.5-4%. Keep the water at this level for 10-14 days. Do water changes to get the water down to 1.5% range. Let it be after that or maintain it at 1.5% during the season. The fish will like it. (Pure sodium chloride salt, no anti-caking agents from water many water softener salts. Non-Iodized, food grade salt). Enthusiasts may insist on sea salt. It’s great if you have it and want to spend a little more, but either way salt is a good thing in the spring for fish. It’s also good in the fall before you put them “to bed”. #2. Strong circulation & good aeration.100-500 gallon ponds should probably be circulated at least 2x every hr. and with larger fish loads even3-4x per hr. is good. Remember that a pump that is called a 500 gal. per. hr. pump does not typically produce 500 gal. per. hr. After it pumps a distance and lifts water a distance it produces less flow than its “rating”, often quite a bit. Sometimes the owner’s manual will show how it performs as the distance & lift increase. 500-2500 gallon ponds should still be circulated 2-3x per hr. 2500-5000 gallons, 1-2x per hr. 5000-7500 gallons .75-1x per hr. Low aeration is stressful to fish and does not allow “beneficial bacteria” to live very well.Average aeration is better, and excellent aeration allows fish to thrive. Health & growth will be optimal in highly aerated water. Beneficial bacteria will also perform much better in a highly aerated environment. Waterfalls are definitely good at aerating water, but don’t assume your water is highly aerated just because you have a waterfall. Test the oxygen level of your water especially when the water is above 68 degrees. It’s harder for air to saturate warm water than cold water. We recommend using air pumps to make sure ponds have strong aeration.They are also an excellent back-up if your water pump fails, and good for keeping an opening in your water surface in the winter. They consume very little energy. #3.Many ponds with fish have less filtration than they should for low maintenance and consistently good results.Ponds with big filters almost always perform very well and are comparatively low maintenance. A lot could be said about this subject and there are many different ways to create effective filtration. Here’s a few basics. For more advice ask one of our specialists to consult on your particular situation and lifestyle. A) A skimmer is typically a very helpful filter componentbecause it gets your pump out of the pond and puts a lot of “pre-filter” in front of it so you don’t have to clean it so often. This also typically helps a pond live longer. B) Many filters are rated “optimistically”, especially for ponds with medium to heavy fish loads and feeding habits.For many of basic “consumer-grade” filters we adjust their rating to half and feel that is more realistic. C) Waterfall filters are prone to having water pumped through them too fast to perform properly. The type of filter material used in these filters can make a big difference.Consider asking us about options to improve your water fall filter if you have one. D) When you clean filter material use pond water, not hose water.The chlorine in the hose water will kill a lot of the good bacteria on the filter material. Also try to clean the material gently. Vigorously spraying with a lot of water pressure and smacking the material on the ground of against something will really disrupt the microscopic bacteria as well. First or last cleaning of the season, maybe you can use hose water and be more vigorous, but once you’re in the season you want to go easy on the biological filter media. Skimmer pads can be sprayed out with a hose and “banged” to get the crud out. They are not really biological filters. Unless you have 2 or 3 layers. If you do, clean the second and third more gently and with pond water. E) Plants are very helpful, but some plants are better than others at filtering water.Hyacinth, water lettuce, water chestnut, water celery, cattails, pickerel rush, louisiana iris, anacharis/elodea, arrowhead, lizards tail, sweet flag, sagittaria, are more aggressive at removing nutrients. Water Lilies are beautiful and provide shade which is helpful, but they don’t remove a lot of nutrients. Also, if you fertilize your water plants be sure to get the fertilizer tab all the way in the dirt and close the hole created when you put it in the plant. If you leave the fertilizer open to direct water exposure it will trigger algae blooms. F) Use beneficial bacteria to balance your water quality and degrade organic waste.This stuff works. Basically liquid types are geared more to clearing water and powder types help with clearing water but have enzymes that actually breakdown waste. Another product that we have found to be very effective is Algae Off. It is crystalized hydrogen peroxide and it oxidizes waste and mossy algae on contact. Liquid bacteria has a limited shelf life and does not keep well in hot temperatures. It should be kept inside, not outside. Also we prefer brands that are mixed fresh. Many brands that are mixed at the factory are many months old by the time they reach the end-user. G) Water changes are very helpful to maintain good water quality.Ponds are “closed-systems”. There is not much consistent “new water” being introduced in many instances. Evaporation does not remove many of the other hormones and nutrients that build up in the water. The same water gets “spent”. This is why ponds with leaks actually often perform well because they are consistently getting new water. Consider pumping 10-15% of your water out every 7-10 days and replace it with fresh water, and a little dechlorinator. H) UV lights/sterilizers are great for clearing green water, but they don’t actually help your water quality. They sterilize “planktonic” algae cells, (green water algae), so it cannot reproduce. UV lights do not control string or hair algae, (filamentous algae). It’s important that water not pass through your UV light too fast. If the water is not exposed to the light long enough it won’t sterilize it. Often you need to “by-pass” some of the pumped water so this doesn’t happen. Also envision how water enters and exits your UV light housing. If the inlets and outlets are “aimed-down” the water does not have to fill the housing of the light as much as if they are “aimed-up”. If your UV light is vertically you would want to pump the water from the bottom to the top, not top to bottom. #4. Watch for run-off water that may be going into your pond. This can definitely put things in the pond that contributes to poor water quality, particularly fertilizers from your yard or planting beds. Also, mulch can stain your water. Often times when you experience cloudy water and clarity issues it’s from a rain that either stirred up the sediment in you pond, or it ran in from a drainage area that goes to the pond. All this being said ponds are really not that hard to get set-up right so they perform well. If you break a lot of these fundamental rules you may be experiencing results you don’t like. If you do these things you will most likely have a pretty low maintenance pond by comparison. Mine’s a piece of cake. We enjoy it day-in-and-day-out and really don’t do much other than follow a few routine things. ...read more
By Pond and Fountain World March 05, 2016