There are a few things in cycling that make you feel really good, cleaning a tough climb, getting in a satisfying cardiovascular workout, beating your buddies back to the trail head, and building the perfect custom trail machine. While it might take a while to help you with the first three things, the crew at Joyride Cycles has the experience and skills necessary to quickly and easily help you create that perfect ride you've been dreaming of.  And we want to help you by explaining all that it takes to build the custom bike of your dreams. Starting a custom build can be intimidating because there are so many frames, sizes, specs, etc. to take into consideration.  But with a little knowledge and forethought, you can put together the bike you've been wanting at a price that fits your budget.  If you're ready to learn more about building your new ride, please follow along. We like to split your custom bike build into several key sections that will help you make sense of the build process by allowing you to see exactly which parts belong to each category and how they'll relate to one another when your bike is completed.  The sections we break a custom build into look like this: Frame-set - generally includes the frame itself, seat clamp, suspension system and rear shock if its not a hardtail, and any proprietary parts if applicable. Fork and headset - includes either a suspension or rigid fork depending on your needs, and the proper headset. Drive-train - includes the crankset (cranks and chainrings) and bottom bracket, rear derailleur, front derailleur or chain retention system, cassette, shifters, and brakes. Cockpit - includes the stem, handlebar, grips, seatpost, and saddle. Wheelset - includes the hubs, spokes, nipples, rims, tubes, and tires. Now that we've listed the five categories of your custom bike, we will go further in-depth in each category so you can begin to see the break down and learn how each parts directly relates to one another, which will help you create your specific dream build.  We'll start in the order listed above - Frame-set first. 1. Frame-set - What kind of riding are you planning with this bike?  You need to know this because it will determine everything else about the build.  Ask yourself - do you need a light or heavy frame, does it need to be a hardtail or have rear suspension?  If yes to rear suspension, how much and what type of shock do you need?  If yes or no to lightness, does it need to be carbon fiber, aluminum, or steel?  Once you've determined the answer to these questions you can successfully choose your frame.  And next you'll use the specs from your new frame to start assembling the proper parts you'll need to build your complete bike.  If this is your first custom build, or you're still undecided about what type of frame is for you, then please read the following paragraphs.  This section will help you determine the type of rider you are and the frame that is right for you.  If you already know what type of frame you want then feel free to skip ahead to the section titled - "Important things you'll need to know about your frame in order to build your custom bike". What kind of rider are you? How to determine which type of frame you need. Just like any construction project, starting with a solid foundation is the key to success, lets begin with choosing a frame. When choosing a new frame you need to consider what type of riding you plan on doing, whether it's XC racing, all day epics, or lift served shralping.   Use these tips to help you in your buying decision: Choose a frame that fits your bodyANDyour riding style - getting a frame that's a little to big or small for you, or not the desired geometry for your riding style for the sake of saving a few bucks will only disappoint you in the end. Try not to let price dictate your decision too much in this department, There are other places in the build where you can save some money without compromising the overall satisfaction of a quality build. Let's go over a few frame types just to flesh out exactly what you're looking for. XC (Cross Country) - In the XC genre you have two categories, hard tail, and full suspension. These bikes are usually intended for racing or light trail riding. They can be significantly lighter than most trail bikes but usually at the cost of overall durability if you ride them beyond their intended use.  Like a Formula One race car, a superlight racing frame is often not meant to last forever and has a specific use.  This is a very important consideration if you're building just one bike.  An XC bike will have a head tube angle anywhere from 71º to 69º and a seat tube angle around 73º.  The combination of these steep angles makes for a bike that can climb very well, but can be a bit twitchy when descending. Travel on an XC bike is usually from 0 to 4 inches and is set on the firm side to promote more efficient climbing. If you race or ride mostly mellow terrain with steep climbs this is the bike for you. Trail/ Enduro/ All Mountain - This category of bikes is one of the most popular genres and is a hot point in cycling circles, trying to nail down exactly what the difference between each so called genre of bike is futile. What we do know, is that for the most part they are all relatively similar in form and function and that all the hubbub might as well be vernacular. An All Mountain or Enduro bike is going to be much more durable than an XC bike while not sacrificing too much in the way of weight and climbing ability. On the lightweight end of the spectrum, the weight safely be around 23-27lbs on a 5-7" travel bike with a higher-end build.  Bikes in this category are going to have a head tube angle anywhere from 70º to 66º with a seat tube angle anywhere from 73º to 71º. The slacker angles allow for a bike that can descend very well but also is a very capable climber. You may not beat captain spandex to the top, but he'll have a hard time keeping up with you on the way down. Travel can be anywhere from 4 to 7 inches and the suspension is usually tuned toward being more plush and playful than pedal serious.  Although there are several available shock options that allow you to get away with two distinct suspension setting at the flick of a switch.  There are also several fork options that will allow you to raise and lower your front end, which will put you in a better downhill or uphill riding position depending on your needs.  We will get into more detail later on. This category suites the all-day rider, endurance dh or super d racer, and weekend warriors.  Over the past few years it has emerged as the quickest growing category in mountain bikes because of the versatility these frame types offer.  If you want to ride lift served on Saturday and hit the group ride on Wednesdays this is the bike for you.  One bike for all uses, hence "all mountain / trail / enduro".  There isn't just one name... Freeride -  If you find yourself with the unquenchable need to throw big off everything steep and gnarly, you may be a freerider.  Freeride bikes are going to be slack at the headtube.  Head angles range from 68º to 65º and seat tubes are in the 70º range. These bikes are built for maximum durability with less emphasis on climbing capability.  Which explains why they are heavier than their All Mountain brethren. The Freeride bike is mostly used for big hits, drops and jump lines, but it contains just a small amount of climbing ability to get you back to the top of the hill.  They are not recommended for long climbs unless you're into that sort of thing.  Travel is anywhere from 5 to 8 inches with suspension generally set very plush to soak up bone chilling gnar. If you're hucking 20 footers to flat (AKA - Canadian Style) this may be the bike for you. DH (Down Hill) - A Down Hill bike is exactly that, it is intended to be ridden down the hill as fast as possible. Because you aren't supposed to pedal up, there are no provisions for a front derailleur, and the seat tube is just there for balance and something to sit on while in the lift line. These bikes are slack - 66º to 63º, and heavier than all mountain bikes, ranging from 36-42lbs with 8-10 inches of travel.  While DH bikes are similar to Freeride bikes, the main difference is there is no front shifting at all and race specific DH bikes will be on the lighter side.  Think back to the F1 analogy - maximum durability isn't always the number one consideration. Dirt Jump/ Slope Style / Dual Slalom - If you like dirt jumping, gated racing, or hucking to smoother landings, then this is the bike for you.  DJ bikes (as I'll refer to it for ease) are usually hardtails or short travel bikes designed with steeper head angles and shorter chainstays so they can be quickly maneuvered on the ground and in the air.  The head angle ranges from 67 Important things you'll need to know about your frame in order to build your custom bike. There are several things you need to know about your frame when choosing parts that will help you eliminate ordering the wrong parts.  Save yourself a headache and much frustration by reviewing the section below before you proceed with ordering anything for your bike. Headtube type - is it tapered, internal, integrated, standard?  There are many options these days and you'll need to know so you can select the proper headset. Bottom bracket Type - Is it standard 68 or 73mm, does it have ISCG guides, and if so, what type?  Is it a BB30?  These can be confusing questions and we are happy to help you out here. Seat post size - This is pretty straight-forward, most posts these days are 27.2, 30.9, or 31.6mm, but there are many more  sizes out there.  You will need to determine if you're going to want or need to run an adjustable seatpost or not.  If you decide you do, you may want to look for cable guides for the handlebar mounted remote that are built onto the frame.  This small touch greatly helps to clean up unsightly second-thought cable routing.  That is if you decide to run a remote post.  We can get into this more later. Front derailleur clamp size -  This is of course if your new bike will use a front derailleur.  Many riders are going to 1x9 or 1x10 drivetrains, which eliminates the front derailleur.  Be aware that you may still run a seat tube mounted chain-guide, so it's good to know the number. Rear drop-out type - There are several options here depending on the frame.  You'll need to know the width and what kind of drop-out is uses.  Up until recently the main options included 135mm x 10mm quick release and 150 x 12mm thru-axle.  These days we're seeing 135mm x 10mm thru-axle, 135mm x 12mm thru axle, and 142mm x 12mm thru axle.  So please be sure you get the correct measurement because it will determine the type of rear hub you need. That is going to warp it up for this post.  You have plenty to chew on for now, and please remember that we are always available to help you with your custom build process.  We can be reached on email almost any hour at - info@Joyride-Cycles.com or by phone at 208-947-0017. Next up we will cover categories 2-5.  Until next time! ...read more