HandyPro of Plymouth

I heard of the dangers of radon in one's home, but how can I check to ensure my family is safe?  My second question is if we do have high levels, can it be removed?

Sheri L.  Ann Arbor, MI

Hi Sheri,

Thanks for your interest and great questions.  Writing a column devoted on home improvement has many benefits to me, the most rewarding is when a question such as yours can possibly save the lives of other readers in our community. 

Radon is colorless, odorless and a tasteless gas that comes from the natural radioactive decay of radium and uranium found in the ground beneath your home.  According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), Washtenaw County, along with other neighboring counties, has the highest potential for the existence of radon gas in Michigan. (http://www.epa.gov/radon/zonemap.html#mapcolors)  Because radon is a carcinogen, and the leading cause of lung cancer among nonsmokers in America, the EPA suggests all homes should be tested for radon. 

Radon levels can be tested by either using a "do-it-yourself" kit or employing professional radon testing services.  Radon is measured in terms of picocuries per liter of air or (pCi/l).  If your home has radon levels higher than 4 pCi/l, the EPA recommends that you take action to lower the levels.

If you choose to be a "handyman" and test the levels yourself, follow the instructions carefully to ensure accurate measurements.  Angie Parsons, Environmental Educator of Washtenaw County Environmental Health says, "This is one of the ways we can control the potential of cancer.   We have two types of home radon level tests -short-term ($10) or long term ($20) radon test level kit".  The tests are available at the Washtenaw County Western Service Center 705 North Zeeb Road in Scio, MI 48103. 

Parsons suggests that for best results, test in the winter while the home is in "Closed Conditions", where the doors and windows are closed.  For more information visit www.ewashtenaw.org/government/departments/environmental_health/indoor_air/radon/eh_radon.html. 

 

Mathew W. Koche,  President of Mold Quest International in Canton MI , whose company offers professional radon testing services, advises homeowners to retest any home that is close to the danger level of 4 pCi/l  because radon is not constant.   "We have seen higher levels in Washtenaw County, but the good news is that there are procedures to help lower levels of radon in homes." Koche says.

If your home has elevated radon levels, there are relatively inexpensive ways to lower the radon levels.  Lowering the levels of radon, called radon "mitigation", can be accomplished by sealing the cracks and crevices in your basement's foundation.  There are professional radon mitigation contractors who can assist you.  They can be found at the National Environmental Health Association's website - www.radongas.org/.  One of the methods called "Sub Slab Depressurization" has proven to be effective in lowering the levels by installing a vent pipe through the basement to the exterior of the house, thus drawing out the radon.  According to the EPA, some radon reduction methods can reduce the radon levels in your home by up to 99 percent.

Radon is a serious health risk, but can be controlled relatively inexpensively.  Why not test for it? I plan to test my home.

 

Paul is a State of Michigan Licensed Builder.  Paul serves as President and founding member of Nationally franchised HandyPro Handyman Service, servicing Washtenaw, Wayne and Oakland Counties.  www.handypro.com.  Listen to Paul every Saturday at 11:00am on "It's Your Home, Let's Talk About It" WAAM Talk 1600AM.  Email questions or comments to kpaul@handypro.com

 

Hello,

First of all, I love reading your column in the Ann Arbor.com newspaper.

 

We have this problem in the home we have lived in for 2 years now. The house was built in 1987 and is a 1750 sq. ft modular ranch over a walk-out basement.  The problem is that in the summer, there is this nasty moldy smell that we notice especially by the front door (next to which are the stairs to the basement) and in our bedroom and our        bathroom.  We had a home energy audit done this summer and they found no evidence of any moisture in the basement, using their special moisture-detecting tool.  Our gutters are fine (we had them cleaned and examined this summer also).  I have temporarily removed the insulation in a number of places above the sill (where the wood meets the foundation) and below the kitchen and  bathrooms to look for mold or water.  I have found nothing.  There was a little bit of mold behind an old metal cabinet that the former owners had left in a closet in the basement. We have removed the cabinet and cleaned up the mold and now there is none.

The home audit guy said maybe we should have our heat ducts cleaned. This doesn't make sense to me, but does it make sense to you?  I don't understand how mold would get in the heat ducts.I really appreciate any advice on how to fix this problem or even more detective work we could do to try and find the culprit.

Thanks so much,

Susan in Chelsea, MI

 

Hi Susan,

Thank you very much for the compliment.   Below are a few suggestions that I hope can help you.

Ducts should be cleaned after visual inspections according to the National Air Duct Association, (NADCA) http://nadca.com/download/Residential_Brochure_060507.pdf.  Furthermore the Environmental Protection Agency, (EPA) says that it may not be necessary if "no one in your household suffers from allergies or unexplained symptoms or illnesses and if, after a visual inspection of the inside of the ducts, you see no indication that your air ducts are contaminated with large deposits of dust or mold (no musty odor or visible mold growth).",

Many times moldy smells can come from the pad which is below the carpet. The carpet and carpet pad can retain water if not cleaned properly. A reputable and professional carpet cleaner will ensure all soap and water is removed once the carpet is cleaned.   Any leftover water and soap will leave an odor. Oxyclean and Febreze have been known to minimize this problem.

Because all homes have some degree of mold, one of the best ways to minimize its impact is to ensure your home has a dehumidifier and/or air conditioning.  Ensuring your home's humidity level is less than 55% will also help minimize a "musty" smell.

You can also place a bowl of white vinegar in the room to absorb the smell, but this is only a temporary solution, because, it doesn't find the source. Cleaning the surrounding area were mold may be prevalent with a vapor or steam cleaner also has been known to help.

 But remember, the best way to control that moldy smell is to find the source of the problem (keep in mind mildew is mold).  The interesting part you described is that your home energy inspector has not found the root cause.  I spoke with a reputable home inspector Mike Goewey from Property Facts Inspections, http://www.propertyfactsinspections.com/, and he agreed if the above tips do not solve your problem, further "on site" inspection will be needed.

 I hope this helps.  If any of our annarbor.com readers, have had or know of other who have had the similar issues and have successfully corrected the issues, do not hesitate to post a comment.

 Paul is a State of Michigan Licensed Builder.  Paul serves as the President and founding member of Nationally franchised HandyPro Handyman Service, servicing Washtenaw, Wayne and Oakland Counties.   www.handypro.com.  Listen to Paul every Saturday at 11:00am on "It's Your Home, Let's Talk About It" WAAM Talk 1600AM.  Email questions or comments to kpaul@handypro.com

 

 

 

My bathroom sink has been draining very slowly and it has almost stopped, what is the best way to get the pipe cleared?

Cindy S. - Whitmore Lake

Hi Cindy, I remember plunging my bathroom sink when my 5 year old daughter asked to help me. Being a new father, I thought I'd show her a thing or two about plumbing. I filled the sink with cold water, approximately 3 inches high, brought out my handy dandy plunger and started plunging away.. . .and away…. and away. Although, I could hear the air flowing each time that I'd plunge, the clog did not give way and the water remained at a standstill. That is until my daughter asked me why there was a hole in the top front end of the sink.

After I explained to her that the purpose of the hole in the sink was to prevent the sink from overflowing, I then covered the hole with a wet rag and continued to plunge. The hair and soap scum in the trap began to loosen and the drain began to clear.

If plunging is unsuccessful, there are a few alternatives below that can help.

The pipe attached to your sink drain is called a trap. It normally is shaped like a letter "P" and in some cases an "S" and sometimes will be referred to as a "P-Trap" or "S-Trap". The trap can be made of plastic or metal and both work very well. To clear the trap, first clear out all of the items beneath the sink and place a small bucket up under the pipe. This will catch any water and debris once the trap is apart. If it is a plastic trap remove the plastic jam nuts with your hand and gently slide the trap into the bucket. After the trap is clean re-install it the same way and make sure the jam nuts are tight to prevent leaking. If it is a metal trap you will need some adjustable pliers to remove the jam nuts but follow the same procedure.

There are smaller versions of the "sewer snake" that can be connected to a drill, inserted into the sink drain to remove the debris. The debris, also known as "biofilm", can be an accumulation of hair, soap scum, cosmetic products and a host of other things, which over time can completely clog a pipe.

Another tool commonly known as a "drain cleaning bladder", can be inserted into your sink drain, and connects to a garden hose which is used to fill a bladder. The bladders seal the pipe, fill-up with water, then pressure blasts the clog and debris free. Costing approximately$ 12-$20, these tools can be less messy than the typical drain snake, however caution must be used on plastic and unsecured pipes because the pressure build up can literally blow the trap loose under the sink.

Chemical drain cleaners are commonly used among homeowners with slow and clogged drain. These products are highly controversial due to the dangers of the powerful chemicals involved, and are discouraged by most plumbers because of the damage that it can do to the drain system. Used incorrectly, the chemicals can also cause skin burn and eye damage. BE SURE to follow the follow the directions carefully when using these products. I have cleared a few drains using grocery store bought maximum strength cleaners. Keep in mind, there is some plastic piping which can be damaged by certain products and the chemicals can be damaging to a septic system.

A natural option of clearing a minor clogged sink is vinegar and baking soda. Boil approximately 3-4 cups of water. Pour it in the drain along with 1 cup of vinegar and one cup of baking soda and cover the drain, (and overflow if applicable). Let sit for approximately 10 minutes and repeat the process.

If further problems exist, it is possible the clog is further down the line of the pipe and you'll need to call a licensed plumber to remove it.

As with most home repairs, preventive maintenance can save a lot of time and repair bills. There are products on the market that can help keep the "biofilm" to a minimum when used regularly. The vinegar and baking soda is a good monthly method as well. Remember, it is easier to clear a slow drain rather than a plugged one.

Paul is a State of Michigan Licensed Builder. Paul serves as President and founding member of Nationally franchised HandyPro Handyman Service, servicing Washtenaw, Wayne and Oakland Counties. Listen to Paul every Saturday at 11:00am on "It's Your Home, Let's Talk About It" WAAM Talk 1600AM. Email questions or comments to kpaul@handypro.com